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An Intimate Walking Tour of the Amalfi Coast

An Intimate Walking Tour of the Amalfi Coast

» Featured Columnists | By Steve Winston | January 7, 2013 10:23 AM ET



The Amalfi Coast.
 
Just saying those three words evokes images of the Eternal Italy...a land bathed in perpetual sunshine, with scenic villages, wonderful food and wines, ancient history around every bend in the road, and Fiats and Ferraris on mountainside roads.
 
A company called Greenloons, based in Vienna, Virginia, can take you there, on its "Amalfi Coast Experience." Through the power of walking, you'll get an intimate look at the people, cuisine, history, and architecture of this storied region. And, since Greenloons is an environmentally-conscious travel company, the only footprints you leave will be on the paths you walk.
 
Along the way, you'll explore the mountain trails of Tri Calli, the hilltop towns of Ravello and Amalfi, acres of lemon groves and vineyards, and miles of cliff-top views overlooking the Mediterranean. You'll explore the ruins of Pompeii, and a cooking class. And you'll sleep in a converted 16th-Century monastery
 
The path starts in Naples, then heads for Pompeii, buried by the most famous volcanic eruption in history. At the foot of Mount Vesuvius, you'll hear the ancient echoes of this cataclysmic event.
 
On the third day of this week-long trip, you'll walk through Valle delle Ferriere National Park, a UNESCO-listed natural wonder with waterfalls and verdant meadows. Surprisingly, it's also home to the two oldest remaining paper mills in Europe, which are open to visitors. (Paper manufacture is one of the traditional crafts of this area.)
 
The next day, participants walk up the steep stone steps to the town of Amalfi, and then on to the hilltop town of Ravello (a bus is also available). Ravello is perched high above the Mediterranean, with stunning views wherever you look.
 
Participants will also have free time to browse local villages and markets. This trip includes the possibility of seeing a classic Ravello villa called Villa Rufolo, as well as the local cathedral. From here, the path winds down a quiet footpath to the tiny coastal village of Atrani, whose ancient alleys are hardly wide enough for two people.
 
On Day 5, the destination is the slopes of Mount Tre Calli, from which you'll get memorable views of the sun-dappled Mediterranean below.
 
The next day is totally up to you. Some folks take a boat out to the famous resort islands of Capri or Ischia, where they can mingle with the international set. Others visit Amalfi's historic Cathedral. And still others head for that beckoning Mediterranean beach.
 
A day later, you'll take the most famous walk in a region full of famous walks - The Walk of the Gods. The trail climbs along ridges high above the coastal towns of Positano and Praiano. And when you see the views, you'll know how this walk got its name.
 
You'll walk down to the village of Montepertuso and then down to Positano (a well-known resort town), past abandoned farmhouses and lemon groves, and across high mountain pastures and woodlands.
 
Participants on the "Amalfi Coast Experience" stay at one place the entire trip - the Agriturismo Saint Alfonso. This is a 16th-Century monastery in the tiny village of Saint Alfonso, and now a fine hotel, with beautiful gardens, and staircases leading out to lemon tree groves and grape vines. Meals are taken on an outside patio overlooking the ocean.
 
There's a great before-dinner treat here, part of what Greenloons calls a "Local Living Experience." Before dinner, the hosts show guests how to prepare traditional regional recipes, using local produce. Depending on the season, you may well be picking part of your own dinner from the vegetable patch and orchards before cooking it.
 
And, at that moment, you'll understand the magic of the Amalfi Coast.
 
 

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